Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Holidays, Uniforms & Trains

I always associate childhood holidays with trains. And with memories of early morning excitement, on the day we'd depart for exotic destinations, coupled with spic-n-span school uniforms and shiny brown school shoes.

It seems odd looking back, but at the time - before I was 10 - I always saw wearing my school uniform, on a train going somewhere further than the extremes of the Illawarra District, on a holiday morning, as somewhat reverent.

Suit cases would be packed and ready the night before, standing to neat attention in the hallway near the front door. Dad would have called to order a cab to take us to the station, usually not long after dawn - or so it seemed. We’d all be up early, excited, having breakfast, while Mum disposed of last-minute perishable items from the bottom of our fridge. She’d then turn it off at the wall, leaving the door jammed open to stop mould from developing while we were away.

The finale was Dad neatly combing my hair, and that of my brother John, while Mum put sister Mary’s hair in pigtails. Usually as the cab beeped its horn outside. There’d be a mad scramble, as Mum checked she’d switched off other appliances and pulled electric cords from walls. This mad, excited scramble would continue until we were all safely seated on our train, catching our breath, heading north to Sydney.

Sydney was exotic enough a destination for kids without a family car. Yet we always knew holidays were to be had further afield, needing changes of trains at Central station. Another mad scramble from one platform to another, hauling cases and coats and travelling rugs as quickly as possible. The change to very different trains meant different lines, different stations along the way, different scenery beyond Sydney’s limits.

Summer weeks spent on Tuggerah Lake, near The Entrance, meant we’d leave Sydney in a quiet, all-steel, air-conditioned Express Train coupled behind a gleaming tuscan-red electric loco. Train refreshment crew staff in pale blue uniforms and white aprons would glide between us as we hurried smoothly along, heading towards Newcastle, offering delicacies such as vanilla icecream in tiny waxed-card buckets. I’d feel like a privileged prince with tasty treatures like these . . . But when our train arrived at Gosford, Dad would invariably disembark - and have us join him on the platform - in time to see the electric wheeled off, and a huge, well-maintained back C38 Pacific express steam loco pushed back into the traces for the next short stage of our dash north. While we’d only ever go as far as Wyong, the train would continue full throttle, behind steam, all the way to Newcastle, another 50 miles further ahead.

Wyong was the place to see all sorts of steam still operating along the Short North. I remember one afternoon seeing a double-headed freight lumber through while we were waiting for the cab to take us to the holiday resort. Heading south, back towards the Gosford change-over, two elderly Standard Goods wheezed their way through, squeezing gently down the side of the double locos' train of over-stacked, tarp-covered wagons. Steam, by now, had disappeared from the Illawarra, and had been replaced by 48 Class diesel locos that - from Day One - always seemed too under-powered for whatever task they were given.

Holidays to Katoomba, in the Blue Mountains, brought different scenery, and different trains - what we kids called Silver Trains - stainless steel multiple-unit electric trains introduced to the steep line with electrification in the late 1950s.

These trains were fast off the mark, always slick away from any station - even those on the steep mountain slopes heading almost due west towards Katoomba. And we rarely rode electrics, even in Sydney (where all electric services were handled by so-called Red Rattler suburban trains). Red Rattler passengers nonchalantly leaned out of every other wide vestibule door, nearly always pinned back while in screaming motion, using nothing more than deft balance and a firm grip on well hand-polished brass poles bolted floor to ceiling.

The Blue Mountains trains had no such vestibules. Once inside their sensible end-car doors, there was nothing to do but to occupy vacant green vinyl-covered seats. Occasionally, you might have to swing a seat from its old position to the travelling direction. But that was it; no further subtlety. Just stainless steel, effortless speed and vinyl-clad cleanliness. And I always equate this cleanliness and the gleaming fluted stainless steel sides of these train cars with Katoomba’s thin bracing, crisp air, smacking our young faces as we alighted at the end of Katooba Street. It was different from the thicker, balmy coastal air or Wollongong, especially in Autumn or Winter.
Yet no matter where we went for our annual two-week holiday, we kids would invariably head off in our neatest school uniforms. It didn’t affect us then, and never raised second looks from fellow passengers.

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

A wigwam for a goose's bridle

I remember two phrases from my childhood. Both phrases from another generation. One a description. The other a destination. Both brimming with gentle mystery . . .

When I’d ask my Nana Lizzie what this was, or what that was, she’d answer sagely that ‘it’ was a ‘wigwam for a goose’s bridle’ I used to spend hours as a very young child contemplating what this contraption could possibly look like, or why you’d want to put a bridle on a goose in the first place. My only conclusion was that those fairies at the top end of my grandparents’ yard – the ones adults couldn’t see because of some collective loss of innocence or concern with other, more pressing matters – would somehow saddle up geese, and ride them solemnly around secret, distant places . . . Places I fervently believed these large birds loved congregating.

Then there were the geese from the pages of children’s stories . . . all white, gentle and never angry. And none of them wore bridles either.

My Grandfather Ted used another phrase.

“Where are you going Grandfather? What are you doing now?”
“Oh . . . I’m just going to see a man about a dog . . .”

I knew grandfather liked greyhounds. He had fading sepia-tone pictures of some, standing to attention, sideways (always looking left), draped in multiple racing sashes. And I knew his association with greyhound racing in Wollongong must have meant he’d meet and deal with other men his age. Other men from a fast-disappearing era. Men in serge trousers held firmly aloft by grey button-up braces starkly contrasting their clean, collarless white cotton shirts with rolled sleeves. Men in high laced black-leather boots with metal toe and heel clips that ‘clacked’ when they walked along hard surfaces. Men topped by weather- and time-worn grey Akubra dress hats finished in wide bands of black.

I’d often rummage through Grandfather’s side table drawers out in the back sunroom – among their mysterious treasures of small note books, short graphite pencils, newspaper clippings relating to this race or that game of rugby league, rubber bands, ancient marbles in excellent condition and dog clips – looking for any possible reference to this man or his dog. Grandfather would smile and laugh gently when I told him what I was doing, and what I was looking for . . . whenever he caught me hunting.

Somehow I remained satisfied with both explanations. I associated them only with two ancient people, living in their neat but Spartan Edwardian weatherboard house close to Wollongong Harbour. The one painted mustard tan, with white window frames and Indian red corrugated iron roof. The one that seemed swathed in summer with the tang of soft Pacific Ocean brine breezes.

These phrases belonged to them, mingling gently with the cooing native pigeons congregating in the trees behind their house.